Today I officially lose my tour guide — Dad. I drop him off bright and early for his golf tournament and suddenly I’m free‑roaming Scotland like a confused collie who slipped out the gate. My next stop is the Cairngorms, but I can’t check in until 3pm, so I decide to give Findhorn one last chance. The tide’s out, maybe the seals will be closer. Maybe today’s the day.
I park up, wander along the beach… great news: I can see them. Bad news: they’re still miles out, basically dots with flippers. I take a few hopeful shots anyway, praying Lightroom can perform miracles later.
Back in the car, I try to remember K9 Brians osprey directions, the kind of directions designed so only the truly dedicated (or truly lost) ever find the place. I wind down tiny roads, park where I think I’m meant to be, and spot a little woodland path. As I turn the corner, I see a photographer. Excellent. If there’s a man with a camera, I’m probably in the right place.
I look left. They’re there. Two ospreys in the nest.
The photographer tells me we can walk further along the path for a better view, so off I trot behind him like an excited spaniel. He’s right, I never thought I’d get this close. I set myself up behind a tree, attempting to look inconspicuous (I absolutely did not). I stay for two hours, trying not to take 400 identical photos to save myself editing pain later.
RSPB Loch Garten: The Day I Walked 9 Miles for a Bag of Crisps
I’m up early, pack the car, and head to RSPB Loch Garten. I’ve been buzzing to visit, expectations sky‑high. I arrive before it opens and head straight for one of the trails. It’s boiling hot. It’s silent. Suspiciously silent. After an hour, I admit defeat and head back for coffee and food. The café has… a bag of crisps. That’s it. Fine. Fuel is fuel.
I check the live feeds, the nest is MILES away from the viewing centre, thank God for k9 brians tip a few days before. I ask for advice for finding crossbills, head back out, walk another half hour, still nothing. I bump into a couple who tell me I’ve missed a hidden turn‑off. Brilliant. As if I’m not already frustrated enough.
Eventually I find the right path and walk the full loop hoping for a crossbill. Nope. Nothing. I do get a little crested tit, which is lovely, but otherwise it’s coal tits, siskins, chaffinches… (don't get me wrong I love all these birds, but I've photographed them many times) and my rising sense of defeat. I was hoping for deer or something, but sometimes nature says “not today”.
By this point my phone is dying, I’m hot, sweaty, hungry, thirsty, and nine miles deep into disappointment. I head to the nearest town for supplies and to charge my phone, except the charge keeps going down. Then: “Phone is shutting down.” I panic. How do I get anywhere? i may have travelled the world but i'm horrific with directions
I sprint to a phone shop, buy a power bank, plug in, and just like that i have a sense of direction again. Time to return to my cabin.
Wildfires, Backpackers, and an Unexpected Hotel Upgrade
When I get back, there’s live music playing, birds tweeting, and a tiny mouse running around. Honestly, why didn’t I just stay here all day?
The young backpackers next door come over looking panicked. They’d seen a wildfire while hiking and ask if I wouldn’t mind being their evacuation plan since I have a car. Of course I say yes, no one’s getting left behind on my watch.
Later, the lady who runs the campsite arrives. The fire is getting worse and isn’t under control. She offers to book us into a hotel further away. We all agree it’s for the best. I let her know I’ll drive the two girls next to me.
And that brings us to now: A lovely 4‑star hotel, working WiFi, comfy bed… but I can’t help feeling sad for the wildlife caught in the forest fires. I hope they get it under control soon.
We’re almost at the end of the Scotland adventure, but there are still a couple of days left to enjoy. As i write this blog at a stupid hour in the morning because i cant sleep i get a plan together to make sure the last two days have as much as i can find! It would be rude not to make the most of the wifi after all!
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